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Wednesday, Jan 15, 2025

La Perla’s Illustrious Rise and Tumultuous Fall: A Tale of Italian Luxury Lingerie

La Perla’s Illustrious Rise and Tumultuous Fall: A Tale of Italian Luxury Lingerie

The turbulent history of La Perla, from its founding in Bologna to its struggles under foreign ownership.
In 1954, Ada Masotti, a skilled corset-maker, opened an atelier in Bologna, aptly named 'La Perla' for her delicate creations wrapped like jewels in red velvet-lined cases.

Crafted with intricate lace and embroidery techniques, La Perla's offerings embodied exclusivity and femininity.

As her son Alberto Masotti took the helm in the 1960s, La Perla's renown flourished, marking a transformative era in luxury lingerie.

Under Alberto's leadership and with his wife Olga Cantelli's creative direction and daughter Anna in commercial roles, La Perla became synonymous with high fashion, blending sensuality with artistry.

By 1995, Alberto was honored with the title Cavaliere del Lavoro by Italy's then-President Oscar Luigi Scalfaro and later received the Oscar della Moda in 2004, epitomizing La Perla's apex.

Yet, global market shifts soon required strategic reinventions.

By the mid-2000s, challenging market dynamics saw La Perla's revenue falter, dropping from €210 million in 2005 to €186 million by 2006, prompting the decision to bring in external investment.

In 2007, burdened by €70 million in debt, the Masotti family ceded ownership to JH Partners, a firm based in San Francisco with a prestigious institutional backing, marking the end of an era for the family-owned brand.

Subsequent ownership transitions witnessed further instability.

By 2013, Italian businessman Silvio Scaglia acquired La Perla, hoping for revival.

Yet, within four years, financial pressures and unmet obligations led to a sale to German financier Lars Windhorst’s Tennor group.

Disappointment and unmet promises under Windhorst's stewardship compounded the brand's struggles, steering it towards legal controversies.

English and Italian courts now vie over the company’s liquidation, reflecting the complex international dimensions of La Perla's plight.

Despite holding its Italian heritage dear, La Perla's transition to a UK-based holding complicated its future.

Judge Maurizio Atzori of Bologna's bankruptcy court faces the intricate task of contesting overseas liquidators to potentially nationalize La Perla’s remnants.

The objective is rebuilding, albeit recognizing that newer brands, like Victoria’s Secret, have supplanted La Perla in the global consciousness as symbols of luxury lingerie.

The narrative of La Perla underscores the volatility in high fashion under global market pressures and ownership changes, highlighting the delicate balance of preserving brand legacy amid evolving consumer landscapes.
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